Portugal: Porto and Lisbon (+Sintra)

Oporto is an old beauty. She’s a cozy and colorful refuge from the grey skies above. Her river has helped bless the world with sweet Douro valley wines for centuries. Sure, she’s a little rough around the edges but that gives her character! I fell fast.

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These boats take barrels of wine from the Douro valley down the Douro river to warehouses in Gaia (across the river from Porto) where it is sold/shipped to the world.

My father and I traveled to Porto just after Christmas and stayed in Vila Nova de Gaia near Praia da Sereia and Praia da Madalena (beaches). In Gaia I loved to walk along the coast line then river into the Port wine cellars area. There is a little fishing village on the way called São Pedro da Afurada I had an amazing fresh fish as part of a 6,50 euro prato de dia (multi-course lunch + beverages) at Casa Machado. I ran into this place after a long and rainy walk along the coastline and had the plate of the day which was delicious! I loved the atmosphere immediately and the food and wine did not disappoint (they poured me not one but two glasses of vinho verde- yay!). From this area you can also take a small ferry across the Douro river to Porto Pier.

Take a Port cellar tour in Gaia! I walked into a random shop on the inner street (running parallel behind the touristy street) and got a tour + tasting for 5 euros. With more time (and maybe warmer weather) I’d have loved to get to the Douro Valley vineyards… next time.

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Some notes from the tour: when buying Port wine go for a 20+ year old bottle. “Vintage” label? Even better. Age it up to 50 years laying bottles down and turning once a year until you open them- then drink within one week. Pour through a filter and aerate for up to one hour. 2011 and 2014 were the best recent years but most Portuguese purchase based on significance of the year.

In Porto we did a self-guided walking tour.

Starting at Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar in Gaia (an excellent spot for viewing NYE fireworks!) walk across Luís I Bridge (build by the guy who did the Eiffel tower) then past the Church of Saint Ildefonso IMG_7136(passing Majestic Cafe) to Manteigaria– Fábrica de Pasteis de Nata. These custard tarts are so good! They come outside on the corner and ring a bell when fresh ones are ready. Have two for 2 euros and add a coffee for ,70 cents. Best second breakfast ever!

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Next up: Livraria Lello (SUPER beautiful but tourist-crowded bookstore which I couldn’t handle entering based on the line around the block but maybe you’ll be lucky and get to see the pretty staircase!) then walk across the park to Clérigos Tower. You can pay 3 euros to go up to about 250 steps for a view (but I was happy with the view from the bridge). If you haven’t already seen it, check out the São Bento train station (blue and white tiles depicting Porto’s history inside) and finally see the Porto Cathedral and Monument Church of St. Francis (inside!) finishing in the touristy but pretty Barrio La Ribeira.

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Lisboa was a place I’d heard was beautiful but honestly didn’t know much about upon arrival. The port city is ancient (older than London, Paris, etc.) but due to an earthquake on All Saints Day 1755 which flattened much of the city and killed about 50% of the population it was rebuilt around 1775-1800. As you walk through different neighborhoods you can feel the histories in the wide/narrow streets and crumbling/rainbow facades. Portugal’s role in globalization is important to remember- this was the place where spices and produce and precious metals from five continents came into Europe. You can find pagodas across the park from statues of elephants and sword-yielding Christian missionaries. There’s a statue of Jesus like the one in Rio as you cross a Golden Gate Bridge (like in SF). 

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The Pink Street is not only photogenic but also hosts the latest partiers at night. Local advice: start at the bars in Bairro Alto around 10pm then you can party all night and into the morning even grabbing breakfast (“after party”) on The Pink Street. For live music: Musicbox

There is quite a bit of tourism in Lisbon. Here’s a list of places to eat which is a blend of my finds and recommendations from my local airbnb hostess:

Tapas and wine – Artis Bar or Lagar do Cais

Rooftop Bar – Sky Bar

Bistro 100 Maneiras – art deco interior and innovative cuisine

Pharmacia – an “antique pharmacy” themed place with cocktails 

A Cevicheria – try the ceviche 😉

AO26 vegan food project – very crowded (vegan food is hard to find here)

Princesa do Castelovegetarian

Speaking of Tourism…

Walk through the city to various view points. There is much to be seen, smelled and heard on the way! When you’re walking through Alfama you can buy shots of homemade Ginjinha (local type of cherry brandy) from people selling out of their home windows for 1 euro.

An easy place to eat (especially with a group) is Mercado de Rebecca. You can grab wine by the bottle and meals from different top-rated restaurants around the city here. Try Sea Me for black tempura and green wine or the local favorite: cod and potatoes.

Good photo/picnic spots: Miradouro De Santa Catarina, Miradouro da Graça (see the Golden Gate/25th April bridge), Miradouro das Portas do Sol, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

I do recommend a day (or two) trip to Sintra it is still touristy but feels much more relaxed due to vegetation and the ocean and mysterious gardens and castles scattered around the area. It’s an easy train trip from Rossio station (under 5 euros round trip) and for me provided a much needed escape from the city. I recommend packing a picnic and enjoying your meal in the great outdoors.

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“The Carnation Revolution” – A one day overthrow of the longest dictatorship in Europe occurred in Lisbon on the 25th of April 1974. { A woman selling flowers walked past a guard protecting the dictator’s residence. She placed one red carnation in the top of his rifle. Revolutionaries came to storm the building. The leaders inside instructed the guards to open fire on the crowd which included civilians. The guard with the flower refused to shoot. Every guard refused.} The dictator fled and a two party temporary government was put in place followed by withdrawal from African colonies and democracy. People celebrated in the streets placing carnations in the muzzles of police and military rifles across the city. {This is the story as told by a local.} Art by Caos, Add Fuel, Draw and MAR. The man depicted is Salgueiro Maia.

I have mixed feelings about Lisbon, about visiting monuments and structures commemorating explorers whose discoveries meant globalization’s also colonization. Today I say a statue in the distance which appeared to be a cross but as I got closer I realized it was a sword being carried on the backs of men heading for Rio de Janeiro.

 

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