Author: Grace in the World

Oporto is an old beauty. She’s a cozy and colorful refuge from the grey skies above. Her river has helped bless the world with sweet Douro valley wines for centuries. Sure, she’s a little rough around the edges but that gives her character! I fell fast.

My father and I traveled to Porto just after Christmas and stayed in Vila Nova de Gaia near Praia da Sereia and Praia da Madalena (beaches). In Gaia I loved to walk along the coast line then river into the Port wine cellars area. There is a little fishing village on the way called São Pedro da Afurada I had an amazing fresh fish as part of a 6,50 euro prato de dia (multi-course lunch + beverages) at Casa Machado. I ran into this place after a long and rainy walk along the coastline and had the plate of the day which was delicious! I loved the atmosphere immediately and the food and wine did not disappoint (they poured me not one but two glasses of vinho verde- yay!). From this area you can also take a small ferry across the Douro river to Porto Pier.

Take a Port cellar tour in Gaia! I walked into a random shop on the inner street (running parallel behind the touristy street) and got a tour + tasting for 5 euros. With more time (and maybe warmer weather) I’d have loved to get to the Douro Valley vineyards… next time.

In Porto we did a self-guided walking tour.

Starting at Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar in Gaia (an excellent spot for viewing NYE fireworks!) walk across Luís I Bridge (build by the guy who did the Eiffel tower) then past the Church of Saint Ildefonso (passing Majestic Cafe) to Manteigaria– Fábrica de Pasteis de Nata. These custard tarts are so good! They come outside on the corner and ring a bell when fresh ones are ready. Have two for 2 euros and add a coffee for ,70 cents. Best second breakfast ever!

Next up: Livraria Lello (SUPER beautiful but tourist-crowded bookstore which I couldn’t handle entering based on the line around the block but maybe you’ll be lucky and get to see the pretty staircase!) then walk across the park to Clérigos Tower. You can pay 3 euros to go up to about 250 steps for a view (but I was happy with the view from the bridge). If you haven’t already seen it, check out the São Bento train station (blue and white tiles depicting Porto’s history inside) and finally see the Porto Cathedral and Monument Church of St. Francis (inside!) finishing in the touristy but pretty Barrio La Ribeira.

Lisboa was a place I’d heard was beautiful but honestly didn’t know much about upon arrival. The port city is ancient (older than London, Paris, etc.) but due to an earthquake on All Saints Day 1755 which flattened much of the city and killed about 50% of the population it was rebuilt around 1775-1800. As you walk through different neighborhoods you can feel the histories in the wide/narrow streets and crumbling/rainbow facades. Portugal’s role in globalization is important to remember- this was the place where spices and produce and precious metals from five continents came into Europe. You can find pagodas across the park from statues of elephants and sword-yielding Christian missionaries. There’s a statue of Jesus like the one in Rio as you cross a Golden Gate Bridge (like in SF). 

There is quite a bit of tourism in Lisbon. Here’s a list of places to eat which is a blend of my finds and recommendations from my local airbnb hostess:

Tapas and wine – Artis Bar or Lagar do Cais

Rooftop Bar – Sky Bar

Bistro 100 Maneiras – art deco interior and innovative cuisine

Pharmacia – an “antique pharmacy” themed place with cocktails 

A Cevicheria – try the ceviche 😉

AO26 vegan food project – very crowded (vegan food is hard to find here)

Princesa do Castelo – vegetarian

Speaking of Tourism…

Walk through the city to various view points. There is much to be seen, smelled and heard on the way! When you’re walking through Alfama you can buy shots of homemade Ginjinha (local type of cherry brandy) from people selling out of their home windows for 1 euro.

An easy place to eat (especially with a group) is Mercado de Rebecca. You can grab wine by the bottle and meals from different top-rated restaurants around the city here. Try Sea Me for black tempura and green wine or the local favorite: cod and potatoes.

Good photo/picnic spots: Miradouro De Santa Catarina, Miradouro da Graça (see the Golden Gate/25th April bridge), Miradouro das Portas do Sol, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

I do recommend a day (or two) trip to Sintra it is still touristy but feels much more relaxed due to vegetation and the ocean and mysterious gardens and castles scattered around the area. It’s an easy train trip from Rossio station (under 5 euros round trip) and for me provided a much needed escape from the city. I recommend packing a picnic and enjoying your meal in the great outdoors.

I have mixed feelings about Lisbon, about visiting monuments and structures commemorating explorers whose discoveries meant globalization’s also colonization. Today I say a statue in the distance which appeared to be a cross but as I got closer I realized it was a sword being carried on the backs of men heading for Rio de Janeiro.

This information is based on my personal experience and is not for everyone. I intend to give broad guidelines which can be personalized by individuals based on their unique compositions and situations.

The key to success in eating well while traveling the globe: moderation.

A few top tricks:

–HOT vegetables (sorry, not salad)

I eat 1-2 salads per day at home so this is hard. Thing is, stomach bugs can’t be cooked off of something uncooked so when indulging in, say, street food I avoid uncooked veggies like the plague (pun intended) If you are craving a fresh salad, looking for reviewed places on Trip Advisor/Yelp/foodie blogs or making your own is a safer option.

Note: watch for uncooked garnishes and ice cubes too!

I bring activated charcoal in case things seem questionable.

–ALWAYS BUY THE WATER

Ideally you will bring a reusable bottle & remember to fill it… but do not penalize yourself for forgetting/being in a place without available drinking water by dehydrating yourself. Your body is going through a lot when you are on the road so don’t dehydrate it out of spite! Buy the water, always buy the water.

“Asian Vegetarian” meals on Delta airlines are my favorite! While in flight I make sure to drink one glass of water for every coffee or wine.

You are what you eat.

Food can be such a wonderful entry point into new cultures. It can mean feeling healthy and bright or feeling heavy and slow. I have found that by paying attention to my diet while traveling I can find a lot more enjoyment in the overall experience.

Planning ahead.

Prepping for a trip can be stressful and stress can impact eating habits. I just try to be aware of this and stick to a healthy diet at home as much as possible. Set good habits at home so you can continue them on the road.

Pack snacks before you go! It is both cheaper and healthier. I love to pack nuts (almonds, cashews, walnuts, etc.) because they are light + filling. Grab things in sealed packages for crossing borders. I also bring my own instant coffee (because I hate watery airplane coffee and grainy hostel instant coffee) and tea bags (I love herbal varieties for relaxing en route). Boost immunity with vitamin C drinks/tabs or grab Nuun tablets for an extra hydrating all natural sports drink. Bringing a reusable water bottle saves $$$. You can bring fruit or sandwiches on planes too! Just liquids are limited so take advantage and have a much yummier sandwich from home/the deli on the way to the airport.

Protein powder/bars? … I have mixed feelings. Sometimes I bring them, sometimes I don’t. It’s usually a matter of how remote I plan to be. I do really like keeping a Probar meal bar in my purse just in case (although they’re sugary- drink lots of water!)

So… you’ve arrived.

The first thing I do upon arrival at my destination is sit down and have a beverage. Sometimes I want to relax so I grab a beer, sometimes I have a long walk ahead of me so I energize with a coffee. Taking a few moments to regroup in a comfortable place with your luggage set down and some time to look at your map and plan your next move is key in my eyes. This rule is a major stress-reducer and often a time-saver since it’s so easy to get lost when your scrambling off of a bus/train/red-eye flight. Take a moment to have a tea and catch your breath. Regroup then step out into your new environment.

Here’s my traveling-on-a-shoestring hack: cut back to 2 meals per day.

As I began traveling, I started to realize that as an American I was used to eating three “square” meals to the point where I felt dependent on it. Funny thing was, looking around at the eating habits in many other places I visited, that’s a lot more food than one might actually NEED to survive (especially assuming you are on a temporary trip). Eliminating one meal seriously helped my budget and my energy level and just works really well for me. Maybe it is out of the question for you. I understand! Can you supplement your third meal with snacks? Can you sacrifice some booze money for food? You are exploring the world so by all means enjoy yourself but I encourage observation of how much you feel you NEED and to go from there.

Breakfast is important. Whatever leftover coffee/tea you have from the plane supply + instant oatmeal packets make for great breakfast options. I am unable to function without breakfast so I usually travel with these just in case. Always take advantage of free breakfast. I add cheap extras like bananas to hostel cereal to make it a bit healthier + tastier. It’s silly to skip free breakfast so set that alarm clock- worth it.

For me, lunch is the biggest meal of my day. After a morning exploring, a big lunch is perfection. Lunch is usually much cheaper than dinner. Make it a leisurely meal followed by late afternoon relaxing.

I love a light dinner. This can be apps and drinks out or a bit of veggies in- whatever you feel! If you are going out late/drinking, don’t forget a falafel!

I will admit that I can be a bit of a “foodie.” I research the best food ahead of time and care to make the time and budget to visit certain places. I try to limit myself to one place per day but rules are meant to be broken under certain circumstances… this is where that word moderation comes into play. By keeping my diet pretty healthy+cheap/DIY most of the time I can afford to treat myself and really appreciate it when I do. I can still remember the best meals I’ve had all over the world- please don’t get so worried about health/budget that you miss the good stuff!

Some of the BEST food in the world (in my opinion) above: friend fish, plantains and coconut rice in the Colombian caribbean, Spicy veggies and prawns on rice and mango sticky rice in Thailand and toasts with bacalao (salted dried cod) in Spain.

Want an amazing experience + a souvenir which you can carry with you always? Take a cooking class! This is one of my favorite travel discoveries. I happen to like cooking… so in my eyes, learning to cook the dishes you are experiencing in a place is learning to enrich the rest of your life. Another great part is cooking for friends once you get home/are reunited. I want to take many, many more cooking classes in many, many more places for the rest of my life. If you have some local friends you can exchange cooking how-to. I taught friends in Colombia how to make hamburgers and a friend from Macedonia showed me how to make the yummiest chestnut dessert. Sharing food is sharing culture. I’m passionate about this one 😉

If you get a chance for a stopover in Seoul, I highly recommend it! The airport is hands down my favorite on the globe.

I flew Asiana Airlines to/from India & did not realized until a couple of days before takeoff that I would have an overnight layover in Seoul on both journeys. Luckily I found that a visa would not be required to enter South Korea so I jumped on Hostelworld & booked a bunk at Seoul I Guesthouse. It’s a decent spot, cheap, and in a fun neighborhood. If you have a daytime layover the airport offers a day tour service for free.

The metro connects directly to the airport which is easy. Nightlife is BIG in Korea. I couldn’t believe how many bottles of booze were around! People dress very nicely. Food is everywhere, everything, so good.

My roommates and I came across a 5-day weekend and decided to head to Scotland off-season for a winter road trip around the country.

In Scotland I saw contrast: dark, strong, jagged structures in a land of seemingly endless rolling hills and winding roads. The winter weather was harsh and unforgiving but strangers were warm and inviting. In between its extremes sits a stark beauty.

Scotland was a place I’d heard called peoples’ “favorite” more than once. For me it was a place that reminded me of home (or close to home- Western Washington State, to be exact). Here’s what we did in our few days there:

Day 1: Arrival in Glasgow in the evening. We picked up our rental car then had dinner at Shilling Brewing Company (my rating: 3.5 – hipster vibes, cute bartender, decent beer, good pizza) downtown before driving about 1 hour to Edinburgh. We stayed one night at Budget Backpackers in Grassmarket. 

Day 2: After a quick exploration of the Royal Mile and breakfast bagels at Brunch Edinburgh we began our “2-3” (but actually 5) hour drive through Cairngorms National Park. We took the scenic route which lead through rolling hills and brought us to the top of a VERY windy peak. There were goats, sheep, horses, cutie cows…but no unicorns were spotted.

We made our way to Aviemore and stayed at the Youth Hostel there. Cairngorm Brewery had quite decent beers (I loved the “Black Gold” stout. Lots of seasonal options. Some varieties had risky names)! We had dinner at The Winking Owl (review: cozy feel, good local beer selection, homey food and beautiful desserts- plus a bit of yummy homemade fudge with your bill!) The weather reports called for strong wind and snow so we got a good night’s rest and woke up early the next morning (before sunrise) to get on the road.

Day 3: After two hours in the car we pulled off next to Loch Ness which had white cap waves thanks to strong winds. It looked like a monster lived in there 😉

Next stop was at Eilean Donan Castle which was closed for the season so we couldn’t go inside but we could walk across the bridge to the island and around the structure. I was glad to be wearing my Hunter boots on this rainy day! Finally we arrived on the Isle of Skye. Unfortunately the weather was changing quickly but we made a drive out to Portree (sadly we couldn’t get to see any more sites before dark) and arrived safely at Skye Backpackers Hostel in Kyleakin literally five minutes before a massive hail storm. The evening consisted of whiskey drinking (I liked Drambuie) and waiting to see what the storm would leave behind the following morning…

Day 4: snow!!! The driving was slow and a bit risky without snow tires but the day was sunny and we took a walk through the woods near Loch Lomond & The Trossach’s National Park. On the last night we stayed in Glasgow at an Airbnb. We ordered food and relaxed before our flight home the following morning. 

Some takeaways which may be useful to future travelers:

• Driving stressed me out a bit (it generally does). Besides driving on the other side of the road, roads are narrow and winding. The weather was dynamic- we’d see snow and ice then wind and sun then rain and hail…all in one day! Tip: Plan on doubling your estimated drive time. Take frequent stops- there’s no need to hurry! I wouldn’t recommend trying to drive more than 3 or 4 hours per day.
• Eat cheap! The Co-op is a good grocery store and picking up snacks/meals here will save you $$$. We loved the selection of cheeses and they had yummy yogurt, tea and shortbread cookies. When I did eat out I always ordered the soup of the day. It’s usually vegetarian and around 5 GBP. Get a beer to fill you up and call it a meal!
• Pack/outfit plan in layers. Changing weather = changing wardrobe. Having layered tops was especially helpful as we changed climates and situations throughout the day. I was also very glad to have wool socks and rain boots! although they are bulky and not usually something I bring I packed in a carry-on roller and personal item bag for this trip since we had the luxury of having a car the whole time.. and luxurious it was ❤
• Note: in winter it is only light out from around 8:30 am – 3:30 pm. Plan accordingly..

P.s. I would like to thank my friend Peter for providing the route information for this trip. He didn’t let us down and I can’t thank him enough! So much territory covered in just three full days of (winter) driving – amazing! Thank you. 

New favorite neighborhood: Gracia. The Born and Gotic/Gothic are cool to visit but I prefer the hipster/local vibes in Gracia. I may also enjoy the name 😉 I had great food at Nabucco Tiramisu and Veg world India and bought handmade shoes and clothing from Les Chausseurs. I stayed at Sant Jordi Hostel – Gracia. Highly recommended.

Other highlights included Parc Guell (always) and seeing the Sagrada Familia after 3 more years progress…

I also took a walking tour (in Spanish for practice!) and enjoyed going out in the Gotic area- cool bars around every corner!

Brunch and Cake was a fantastic experience.

A quick/cheap eat favorite: Bo de Be. Big sandwiches/bocadillos get them to go and eat outside on the steps across the street out front.

A double recommendation came for Sensi Gourmet Tapas

I have yet to visit the Miro museum (but it’s high on my list)

Until next time, Barca ❤