Author: Grace in the World

I just returned home to Murcia (Spain) after an amazing trip to Greece with two fantastic women: Amy and Lucia. We were also joined by Annie. Coming off of time with ladies who support one another and enjoy each day fiercely, I’m feeling quite lucky. I’ve made a new commitment to center future travel more around who I’m with than where I’m going. I believe this will lend more community to my life. I feel deeply that it is the interaction we have with others, the love we share, which fulfills. Here is some information about our time in Athens, Mykonos, Delos and Santorini. I hope it will inspire other groups of friends to take a journey with their people and I hope these beautiful destinations will be enjoyed as much by all of you readers as they were by me.

First stop: Athens.

I recommend taking an Uber from the Athens airport into the city center. We found many great Airbnbs available. Avoid staying in the Omonia neighborhood. I’ve heard mixed things about safety in Athens. We were cautious but felt safe during the day in the tourist center. We headed home before midnight (when the train shuts down).

We had one full day in Athens and one half day. We started day one with a free walking tour: https://www.athensfreewalkingtour.com/en/ which we really enjoyed!! Our tour guide was knowledgable and made the history of the city come to life. He recommended a great Lunch at Vegan Nation afterwards. Then we walked through the romantic Plaka neighborhood en route to the side entrance (shorter line) of the Acropolis. After an unforgettable morning, we headed for afternoon cocktails at A for Athens – a fantastic rooftop bar with an incredible view of the Acropolis and ruins below! The rest of the evening included greek salad, tzatziki, muscat and the most delicious baklava. Greek food is so good!!!

Day two focused on the National Archeological Museum (free for students!). My history books came to life in this place. I recommend a full day with a break for greek coffees and spanakopita in their garden cafe halfway. This, for me, was a must in Athens (like the Acropolis).

We took a very nice high-speed Hellenic Seaways ferry to Mykonos and happened to come across Sakis Gyros upon arrival. This place became a (cheap!) staple- we enjoyed one vegetarian pita per day (or try the chicken souvlaki pita if you’re not veg) on the rooftop patio of our Airbnb. We had a lot of rooftop meals because food is pricey in the touristy Mykonos town and our view was incredible. Try to find the AB grocery store (it’s next to bus station and doesn’t appear to be on Google Maps) for decent (but still price inflated) grocery items.

For (stupidly expensive!!!) cocktails, two recommendations: Passo Doble for the good drinks (I loved the passionfruit mojito) and Bar 180° for a unbeatable sunset view (order the “porn star”)- it’s well worth the uphill trek (don’t wear heels).

For a little touristy excursion, take a day trip to Delos. The ferry costs 20 euros round trip. Head down around 9am and you’ll be back around 2/2:30. Pack a picnic! You can hike to the highest point of the island for a phenomenal view (and a momentary escape from other tourists if your fast)!

Next up, Santorini

In Santorini  we stayed in Finikia in a very cool cave house (pictured below and again, an affordable Airbnb) which is walking distance from Oía (pronounced ía).

We loved the food and house white at Lefkes & visited a nearby winery Domaine Sigalas – walk in, try the vinosanto.

If you’re in Oía please go for dinner at Fino. Fantastic. This is where we celebrated my birthday. Marykei bar is the only bar in Oía but it’s lovable. They serve ice cream during the day and cocktails at night. Smart. A few other good places to eat in Oía: Kyprida, Melitini and Sunset Cafe (we tried the first and were told the last two were good though we opted to cook at home a bit to save money)

A highlight of our experience was the scenic Oía-Thira 10k hike. We took our time, stopping for a picnic halfway. In Fira (Thira) we were able to grab groceries at the supermarket then we took a bus back to Finikia.

We loved visiting the town of Pyrgos for a day! It was orthodox Easter Eve and the city streets and rooftops are lined with candles- truly a sight to remember.

Other things to do on the island of Santorini: Many people enjoy renting four wheelers to get around but the bus is also cheap & easy (this was our option). We visited the black sand beach briefly. There’s also a red (rust) colored beach and white (beige)- many colors due to volcanoes!

We loved traveling in the off-season/shoulder-season (late March/early April) because prices and crowds were LOT lower. Still, I’ll note that this trip was quite a bit more expensive than I’d imagined- we all double our daily budget. FYI.

Bon voyage!

FOOD

The photo on the left is my first meal in Murcia! El Rincon de Las Anas is still one of my very favorite places to eat. This is a prawn surrounding a scallop on a bed of lettuce with sprouts and salsa and chili pepper on top. Four euros and phenomenal. Paired with a local white wine from Jumilla.

La Tapa (you MUST try their croquettes w goat cheese, rosemary and honey- photo above) It’s in my favorite plaza. The photo above on the right is of their mushroom gazpacho. It’s got foam on top and it’s only 3 euros- what?!

I walked by El Jardín de los Dragones one afternoon and happened to be so hungry that I ran right in. I’m sure glad I did! This is now one of my favorites! I go for tapas + beers or a menú del día (multi course lunch). P.s. it’s vegan!

Urban Burrito Bar = saving Murcia from an American-Mexican food shortage. I’m so glad this place exists! It’s a staple for me now. They have a good vegan chili as well. I’m a regular.

Mano a mano has fantastic pizza. I love to take a slice to go and eat on a bench in the sunshine while people watching.

Llallao – frozen yogurt with dark chocolate coating YES PLEASE. It’s a chain but it’s originally from Murcia.

DRINKS

Coffee spots: Cafe Lab, El Gallinero & Socolá are all amazing.

Please note that I don’t go out at night much. But when I do, I…

Grab cocktails (gin and tonics are most popular- try Seville’s strawberry variety: Puerto de Indias) at El Perro Azul on the patio. Late night stop: Revolver for giant glasses of beer & live music. Bizzart is  my favorite spot for dancing.

TO SEE 

The Casino + Cathedral + Santa Clara Monastery (Museum)

Fuensanta cathedral on the side of a Mountain with nice views and little trails around

Street art at Plaza Academia General del Aire

Day Trips from Murcia

Cartagena day trip to see Roman theater + veg lunch spot: Chef Momo

The town of Bullas has a waterfall and swimming hole called El Salto de Usero. It’s a great place to go on a hot day! You can get there by bus from Murcia.

I enjoy hiking at El Valle. Just a short city bus ride from Murcia’s city center, there are many trail options, green mountains and fresh air.

On my to do list:

Mazarron beach and the pink salt lake: Las Salinas de Torrevieja (for this one I’ll need to rent a car)

I live in Murcia, Spain and work as an English teaching assistant at three primary schools in the Murcia city area. I don’t have any teaching experience but I’m learning everyday as I teach English and Natural Science in years 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6.

I am an employee of the Ministry of Education (the Spanish Government). I am on a student visa which allows me to work here for the duration of the school year (beginning of October- end of May). I work 12 hours per week. I receive health insurance and a monthly salary of 700 euros. Before you gasp at that figure please take into account that the cost to rent a room is around 200 per month. This is a living wage. If this program sounds appealing to you please read on.

Here is a link to the main information page (U.S. edition):

https://www.mecd.gob.es/eeuu/convocatorias-programas/convocatorias-eeuu/auxiliares-conversacion-eeuu.html

Program Requirements:  4-year undergraduate degree & native English speaker. No teaching experience/education required.

My advice for applicants:

1. Apply for your Visa ASAP the process can take a very long time (months) especially if you don’t happen to live in a city with a Spanish Consulate 
2. The application process can be tedious. There are confusing translations. Pay close attention to the help guide they provide and it will get you through.

Before you go:

Save 3 months income before coming ( around $2000) re: late paychecks + fall/holiday travel. You’ll need some seed money to make a deposit on your new place, furnish it (“furnished” places are pretty basic!) and feed and clothe yourself for a couple of months. Also there are many holidays in Spain! The fall is a great time to take advantage of your residence on the European continent and do some traveling!

In the Murcia region it took until the End of November to receive our first paycheck. We were paid in full of course and the checks have been more steady (monthly) since…

I booked my first week’s stay at The Cathedral Hostel (in a private room) in advanced. I ended up staying for two weeks but having a guaranteed roof over my head for those first few days was important. 

I met two other girls in the same program via a Facebook page for Murcia area language assistants and we used a service called Opau to find our apartment. Honestly we didn’t love this company (they had a bad attitude and were hard to get ahold of) but they came through and found us a nice place and all of our forms with the landlord were done in their office- nice and official.

You’ll need to set up an account at a Bank upon arrival. Get a Spanish phone number first & don’t forget to bring your passport as ID.

NIE (Número de Identificación de Extranjero)

When you arrive you will need to apply for a resident card. You’ll use the NIE provided on your visa to do this.

You’ll need to go to the Extranjeria by bus.

-First visit: show them your visa they will give you paperwork and a date to come back with that work completed (you’ll also have your fingerprints taken by the police at this second appointment)

-The Empadronamiento is in the park behind El Corte Inglés (look for a yellow building) you need to bring a copy of your rental agreement and copies of owner’s and tenants’ passports (all tenants must be present). They will provide you with a form to pass on to the Extranjeria.

-There are photo booths around town where you can take passport photos.

-Go onto any bank with the tax form to pay it.

-Your card will be ready for pickup on a third trip to the extranjería a few weeks after the (second) fingerprints appointment.

GENERAL INFO

For WiFi we use Vodafone. For cell phone I use Orange.

Go grocery shopping at Mercadona and Gran Bi Bio (their organic version). El Corte Ingles has more brand variety in case you’re looking for something familiar

Go shopping at Zara, Mango & Bimba y Lola.

TO DO

I go to Quo gym (I like it!) bonus: they offer Pilates classes 🙂

weeknight activity in Murcia center: Indoor rock climbing (bouldering) at Montaña Magica

One of the best things to try in your first few weeks/months is an intercambio. Intercambios (language exchange meet ups- try Tap Room’s) allow you to meet people from all over the world and speak in many different languages.

I hope this information is of some help/interest to someone. Please, if you have any questions about Murcia or about the program or about my experience so far in my first year living abroad let me know.

Oporto is an old beauty. She’s a cozy and colorful refuge from the grey skies above. Her river has helped bless the world with sweet Douro valley wines for centuries. Sure, she’s a little rough around the edges but that gives her character! I fell fast.

My father and I traveled to Porto just after Christmas and stayed in Vila Nova de Gaia near Praia da Sereia and Praia da Madalena (beaches). In Gaia I loved to walk along the coast line then river into the Port wine cellars area. There is a little fishing village on the way called São Pedro da Afurada I had an amazing fresh fish as part of a 6,50 euro prato de dia (multi-course lunch + beverages) at Casa Machado. I ran into this place after a long and rainy walk along the coastline and had the plate of the day which was delicious! I loved the atmosphere immediately and the food and wine did not disappoint (they poured me not one but two glasses of vinho verde- yay!). From this area you can also take a small ferry across the Douro river to Porto Pier.

Take a Port cellar tour in Gaia! I walked into a random shop on the inner street (running parallel behind the touristy street) and got a tour + tasting for 5 euros. With more time (and maybe warmer weather) I’d have loved to get to the Douro Valley vineyards… next time.

In Porto we did a self-guided walking tour.

Starting at Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar in Gaia (an excellent spot for viewing NYE fireworks!) walk across Luís I Bridge (build by the guy who did the Eiffel tower) then past the Church of Saint Ildefonso (passing Majestic Cafe) to Manteigaria– Fábrica de Pasteis de Nata. These custard tarts are so good! They come outside on the corner and ring a bell when fresh ones are ready. Have two for 2 euros and add a coffee for ,70 cents. Best second breakfast ever!

Next up: Livraria Lello (SUPER beautiful but tourist-crowded bookstore which I couldn’t handle entering based on the line around the block but maybe you’ll be lucky and get to see the pretty staircase!) then walk across the park to Clérigos Tower. You can pay 3 euros to go up to about 250 steps for a view (but I was happy with the view from the bridge). If you haven’t already seen it, check out the São Bento train station (blue and white tiles depicting Porto’s history inside) and finally see the Porto Cathedral and Monument Church of St. Francis (inside!) finishing in the touristy but pretty Barrio La Ribeira.

Lisboa was a place I’d heard was beautiful but honestly didn’t know much about upon arrival. The port city is ancient (older than London, Paris, etc.) but due to an earthquake on All Saints Day 1755 which flattened much of the city and killed about 50% of the population it was rebuilt around 1775-1800. As you walk through different neighborhoods you can feel the histories in the wide/narrow streets and crumbling/rainbow facades. Portugal’s role in globalization is important to remember- this was the place where spices and produce and precious metals from five continents came into Europe. You can find pagodas across the park from statues of elephants and sword-yielding Christian missionaries. There’s a statue of Jesus like the one in Rio as you cross a Golden Gate Bridge (like in SF). 

There is quite a bit of tourism in Lisbon. Here’s a list of places to eat which is a blend of my finds and recommendations from my local airbnb hostess:

Tapas and wine – Artis Bar or Lagar do Cais

Rooftop Bar – Sky Bar

Bistro 100 Maneiras – art deco interior and innovative cuisine

Pharmacia – an “antique pharmacy” themed place with cocktails 

A Cevicheria – try the ceviche 😉

AO26 vegan food project – very crowded (vegan food is hard to find here)

Princesa do Castelo – vegetarian

Speaking of Tourism…

Walk through the city to various view points. There is much to be seen, smelled and heard on the way! When you’re walking through Alfama you can buy shots of homemade Ginjinha (local type of cherry brandy) from people selling out of their home windows for 1 euro.

An easy place to eat (especially with a group) is Mercado de Rebecca. You can grab wine by the bottle and meals from different top-rated restaurants around the city here. Try Sea Me for black tempura and green wine or the local favorite: cod and potatoes.

Good photo/picnic spots: Miradouro De Santa Catarina, Miradouro da Graça (see the Golden Gate/25th April bridge), Miradouro das Portas do Sol, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

I do recommend a day (or two) trip to Sintra it is still touristy but feels much more relaxed due to vegetation and the ocean and mysterious gardens and castles scattered around the area. It’s an easy train trip from Rossio station (under 5 euros round trip) and for me provided a much needed escape from the city. I recommend packing a picnic and enjoying your meal in the great outdoors.

I have mixed feelings about Lisbon, about visiting monuments and structures commemorating explorers whose discoveries meant globalization’s also colonization. Today I say a statue in the distance which appeared to be a cross but as I got closer I realized it was a sword being carried on the backs of men heading for Rio de Janeiro.

This information is based on my personal experience and is not for everyone. I intend to give broad guidelines which can be personalized by individuals based on their unique compositions and situations.

The key to success in eating well while traveling the globe: moderation.

A few top tricks:

–HOT vegetables (sorry, not salad)

I eat 1-2 salads per day at home so this is hard. Thing is, stomach bugs can’t be cooked off of something uncooked so when indulging in, say, street food I avoid uncooked veggies like the plague (pun intended) If you are craving a fresh salad, looking for reviewed places on Trip Advisor/Yelp/foodie blogs or making your own is a safer option.

Note: watch for uncooked garnishes and ice cubes too!

I bring activated charcoal in case things seem questionable.

–ALWAYS BUY THE WATER

Ideally you will bring a reusable bottle & remember to fill it… but do not penalize yourself for forgetting/being in a place without available drinking water by dehydrating yourself. Your body is going through a lot when you are on the road so don’t dehydrate it out of spite! Buy the water, always buy the water.

“Asian Vegetarian” meals on Delta airlines are my favorite! While in flight I make sure to drink one glass of water for every coffee or wine.

You are what you eat.

Food can be such a wonderful entry point into new cultures. It can mean feeling healthy and bright or feeling heavy and slow. I have found that by paying attention to my diet while traveling I can find a lot more enjoyment in the overall experience.

Planning ahead.

Prepping for a trip can be stressful and stress can impact eating habits. I just try to be aware of this and stick to a healthy diet at home as much as possible. Set good habits at home so you can continue them on the road.

Pack snacks before you go! It is both cheaper and healthier. I love to pack nuts (almonds, cashews, walnuts, etc.) because they are light + filling. Grab things in sealed packages for crossing borders. I also bring my own instant coffee (because I hate watery airplane coffee and grainy hostel instant coffee) and tea bags (I love herbal varieties for relaxing en route). Boost immunity with vitamin C drinks/tabs or grab Nuun tablets for an extra hydrating all natural sports drink. Bringing a reusable water bottle saves $$$. You can bring fruit or sandwiches on planes too! Just liquids are limited so take advantage and have a much yummier sandwich from home/the deli on the way to the airport.

Protein powder/bars? … I have mixed feelings. Sometimes I bring them, sometimes I don’t. It’s usually a matter of how remote I plan to be. I do really like keeping a Probar meal bar in my purse just in case (although they’re sugary- drink lots of water!)

So… you’ve arrived.

The first thing I do upon arrival at my destination is sit down and have a beverage. Sometimes I want to relax so I grab a beer, sometimes I have a long walk ahead of me so I energize with a coffee. Taking a few moments to regroup in a comfortable place with your luggage set down and some time to look at your map and plan your next move is key in my eyes. This rule is a major stress-reducer and often a time-saver since it’s so easy to get lost when your scrambling off of a bus/train/red-eye flight. Take a moment to have a tea and catch your breath. Regroup then step out into your new environment.

Here’s my traveling-on-a-shoestring hack: cut back to 2 meals per day.

As I began traveling, I started to realize that as an American I was used to eating three “square” meals to the point where I felt dependent on it. Funny thing was, looking around at the eating habits in many other places I visited, that’s a lot more food than one might actually NEED to survive (especially assuming you are on a temporary trip). Eliminating one meal seriously helped my budget and my energy level and just works really well for me. Maybe it is out of the question for you. I understand! Can you supplement your third meal with snacks? Can you sacrifice some booze money for food? You are exploring the world so by all means enjoy yourself but I encourage observation of how much you feel you NEED and to go from there.

Breakfast is important. Whatever leftover coffee/tea you have from the plane supply + instant oatmeal packets make for great breakfast options. I am unable to function without breakfast so I usually travel with these just in case. Always take advantage of free breakfast. I add cheap extras like bananas to hostel cereal to make it a bit healthier + tastier. It’s silly to skip free breakfast so set that alarm clock- worth it.

For me, lunch is the biggest meal of my day. After a morning exploring, a big lunch is perfection. Lunch is usually much cheaper than dinner. Make it a leisurely meal followed by late afternoon relaxing.

I love a light dinner. This can be apps and drinks out or a bit of veggies in- whatever you feel! If you are going out late/drinking, don’t forget a falafel!

I will admit that I can be a bit of a “foodie.” I research the best food ahead of time and care to make the time and budget to visit certain places. I try to limit myself to one place per day but rules are meant to be broken under certain circumstances… this is where that word moderation comes into play. By keeping my diet pretty healthy+cheap/DIY most of the time I can afford to treat myself and really appreciate it when I do. I can still remember the best meals I’ve had all over the world- please don’t get so worried about health/budget that you miss the good stuff!

Some of the BEST food in the world (in my opinion) above: friend fish, plantains and coconut rice in the Colombian caribbean, Spicy veggies and prawns on rice and mango sticky rice in Thailand and toasts with bacalao (salted dried cod) in Spain.

Want an amazing experience + a souvenir which you can carry with you always? Take a cooking class! This is one of my favorite travel discoveries. I happen to like cooking… so in my eyes, learning to cook the dishes you are experiencing in a place is learning to enrich the rest of your life. Another great part is cooking for friends once you get home/are reunited. I want to take many, many more cooking classes in many, many more places for the rest of my life. If you have some local friends you can exchange cooking how-to. I taught friends in Colombia how to make hamburgers and a friend from Macedonia showed me how to make the yummiest chestnut dessert. Sharing food is sharing culture. I’m passionate about this one 😉

If you get a chance for a stopover in Seoul, I highly recommend it! The airport is hands down my favorite on the globe.

I flew Asiana Airlines to/from India & did not realized until a couple of days before takeoff that I would have an overnight layover in Seoul on both journeys. Luckily I found that a visa would not be required to enter South Korea so I jumped on Hostelworld & booked a bunk at Seoul I Guesthouse. It’s a decent spot, cheap, and in a fun neighborhood. If you have a daytime layover the airport offers a day tour service for free.

The metro connects directly to the airport which is easy. Nightlife is BIG in Korea. I couldn’t believe how many bottles of booze were around! People dress very nicely. Food is everywhere, everything, so good.

My roommates and I came across a 5-day weekend and decided to head to Scotland off-season for a winter road trip around the country.

In Scotland I saw contrast: dark, strong, jagged structures in a land of seemingly endless rolling hills and winding roads. The winter weather was harsh and unforgiving but strangers were warm and inviting. In between its extremes sits a stark beauty.

Scotland was a place I’d heard called peoples’ “favorite” more than once. For me it was a place that reminded me of home (or close to home- Western Washington State, to be exact). Here’s what we did in our few days there:

Day 1: Arrival in Glasgow in the evening. We picked up our rental car then had dinner at Shilling Brewing Company (my rating: 3.5 – hipster vibes, cute bartender, decent beer, good pizza) downtown before driving about 1 hour to Edinburgh. We stayed one night at Budget Backpackers in Grassmarket. 

Day 2: After a quick exploration of the Royal Mile and breakfast bagels at Brunch Edinburgh we began our “2-3” (but actually 5) hour drive through Cairngorms National Park. We took the scenic route which lead through rolling hills and brought us to the top of a VERY windy peak. There were goats, sheep, horses, cutie cows…but no unicorns were spotted.

We made our way to Aviemore and stayed at the Youth Hostel there. Cairngorm Brewery had quite decent beers (I loved the “Black Gold” stout. Lots of seasonal options. Some varieties had risky names)! We had dinner at The Winking Owl (review: cozy feel, good local beer selection, homey food and beautiful desserts- plus a bit of yummy homemade fudge with your bill!) The weather reports called for strong wind and snow so we got a good night’s rest and woke up early the next morning (before sunrise) to get on the road.

Day 3: After two hours in the car we pulled off next to Loch Ness which had white cap waves thanks to strong winds. It looked like a monster lived in there 😉

Next stop was at Eilean Donan Castle which was closed for the season so we couldn’t go inside but we could walk across the bridge to the island and around the structure. I was glad to be wearing my Hunter boots on this rainy day! Finally we arrived on the Isle of Skye. Unfortunately the weather was changing quickly but we made a drive out to Portree (sadly we couldn’t get to see any more sites before dark) and arrived safely at Skye Backpackers Hostel in Kyleakin literally five minutes before a massive hail storm. The evening consisted of whiskey drinking (I liked Drambuie) and waiting to see what the storm would leave behind the following morning…

Day 4: snow!!! The driving was slow and a bit risky without snow tires but the day was sunny and we took a walk through the woods near Loch Lomond & The Trossach’s National Park. On the last night we stayed in Glasgow at an Airbnb. We ordered food and relaxed before our flight home the following morning. 

Some takeaways which may be useful to future travelers:

• Driving stressed me out a bit (it generally does). Besides driving on the other side of the road, roads are narrow and winding. The weather was dynamic- we’d see snow and ice then wind and sun then rain and hail…all in one day! Tip: Plan on doubling your estimated drive time. Take frequent stops- there’s no need to hurry! I wouldn’t recommend trying to drive more than 3 or 4 hours per day.
• Eat cheap! The Co-op is a good grocery store and picking up snacks/meals here will save you $$$. We loved the selection of cheeses and they had yummy yogurt, tea and shortbread cookies. When I did eat out I always ordered the soup of the day. It’s usually vegetarian and around 5 GBP. Get a beer to fill you up and call it a meal!
• Pack/outfit plan in layers. Changing weather = changing wardrobe. Having layered tops was especially helpful as we changed climates and situations throughout the day. I was also very glad to have wool socks and rain boots! although they are bulky and not usually something I bring I packed in a carry-on roller and personal item bag for this trip since we had the luxury of having a car the whole time.. and luxurious it was ❤
• Note: in winter it is only light out from around 8:30 am – 3:30 pm. Plan accordingly..

P.s. I would like to thank my friend Peter for providing the route information for this trip. He didn’t let us down and I can’t thank him enough! So much territory covered in just three full days of (winter) driving – amazing! Thank you.